Dateline: Europe

Some observations (some not all that important) from the Old World

For the first time in my life I’m on an extended trip outside the United States. I have the company of the world’s best traveling companion, a stimulating (but not too taxing) itinerary and (finally) the time to really enjoy a long travel adventure.

I’d be less than honest if I didn’t acknowledge that this trip, at least in part, was prompted by a desire to view at least some of the rest of the world while my own country is mired in corruption, dysfunction, rising authoritarianism and, even more than normal, a disgusting disregard for her old friends and old allies in Europe and elsewhere.

Here follows some (not terribly important and often not unique to me) cultural and historical observations from countries where, it’s pretty clear, most folks are completely mystified by what has happened to the old USA.

You’re here because you care about history and politics. I’m here to draw on decades of writing about history and politics, particularly by applying history to our current circumstances. These essays are free, but a financial contribution helps support my writing and research, including a new book in progress.

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The Politics

First, it must be said that many European democracies are in various stages of chaos. The UK, France, Spain and several other countries have serious far right movements and political parties that threaten more centrist political parties and policies.

With regard to right wing white nationalism, anti-immigrant politics and growing authoritarianism the U.S. is hardly alone.

France, politically speaking, is a bit of a mess, as Le Monde put it recently, due to “political instability and [a] tough economic situation.”

Even with its domestic problems, many related to immigration, the French remain steadfast supporters of Ukraine in its war of preservation against Putin’s Russia.

Much the same can be said of the United Kingdom: a ham handed Labour government that often seems a half-step behind the public, struggling with inflation, immigration and a sense of national decline.

Yet, the government of Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer, with all of its troubles, remains firmly committed to Ukraine’s independence.

The fumbling, feckless, incompetent Ukraine “policy” of MAGA world only underscores the utter shamelessness of the U.S. president repeatedly siding with the Kremlin butcher, Vladimir Putin. ¹

Britain has its own libertarian crackpot, a Trump buddy, named Nigel Farage, a man now credibly accused of racist, pro-Nazi sympathies.

To be sure the Ukraine-Russian war never feels far from any place in Europe. Kiev is about as close to Paris as Miami is to New York. European news organizations cover the four-year war daily and in detail and Europeans genuinely seem to understand that Russia prevailing would present a huge and expanding threat to the rest of Europe. ²

Anecdotal evidence of the profound European concern about Putin’s Russia struck me squarely during a bookstore visit in Oxford, England. An entire section was given over to books about Russia under its dictator, and Donald Trump’s pal.

Sadly, most of Trumpworld couldn’t find Ukraine on a map and few Republicans are as outspoken in opposition to Putin as are many British conservatives, for example.

Blackwell’s Books in Oxford with an entire section about the man who threatens European security

Food and Fashion

One cannot travel in Europe and not appreciate two things above all: food and fashion.

For reasons that totally escape me the single biggest women’s fashion trend continues to be … drum roll: leopard print.

Everywhere and everything is leopard print

We actually spent a couple of days during our rambles attempting to count the number of times we saw leopard print: Jackets, scarves, purses, shoes, hats and more. We just gave up. Leopard print is the new black, or something. It is literally everywhere.

Well, I guess it goes with everything

The United States in recent years has rediscovered the “farm to table” concept of food grown close to where it is sold and consumed. One guesses the French never had to rediscover the concept.

If you aren’t wowed by the variety and quality of local produce, meat, fish, cheese, bread and wine in even the smallest local French market square you’re probably happy to visit McDonald’s on a regular basis.

Let me tell you about the whole roast chicken we bought for €11 - about $12.60 - at the Saturday market in Uzes, a charming little town in Provence. On second thought, eating that chicken was way better than writing about it. Get your own. You won’t be disappointed.

Olives, anyone?

The Grand Charles - the general and president - reportedly once asked “how can anyone govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?”

I’m not at all sure De Gaulle really said that because he was not an understated man and France actually claims about 1,000 types of cheese. Top that Spain.

Too many choices … no

No escaping it

At the same time, even accounting for fashion and food, one is never far from ubiquitous American culture. Thanks to someone’s stupid tariffs you’ll be hard pressed to find a bottle of American whiskey or wine in a French grocery store, but the Coca Cola is made locally and it is everywhere.

And the little flashes of American cultural are everywhere, too. Who would have thought a thoroughly French restaurant in rural France would feature a mural of Rhett and Scarlett?

Franchement, ma chere, je m’em fiche completement. (Just remember the movie and you’ll know the line.)

And if anything Christmas season comes earlier in Europe than it does in the U.S. with store windows lit up and ornaments everywhere early in November. Black Friday is a really big deal. So are American Christmas songs and kitschy tree ornaments.

Looking on the bright side, at least we are exporting the very best of American culture.

A department store in the Canary Islands of Spain

A quick world about futbol

The Portuguese island of Madeira is a truly lovely place. I’m already itching to go back. And since my Portuguese is a little rusty it was reassuring to discover that almost everyone on Madeira speaks some English. It has become mandatory for students to study English for several years, as well as French with German optional. The requirement clearly helps the island cater to European tourists, but one suspects it also makes for a genuinely worldly population. Who would believe?

The all-time great footballer, Cristiano Ronaldo, was born in Madeira and, as you might expect he is a local hero of sorts. He has his own hotel, museum and bronze statue, well worn in certain areas.

All in all, I’m more a Messi guy

Ronaldo, it is said, is now a billionaire, and at age 40 he is playing out his illustrious career in one of the lavishly appointed teams in Saudi Arabia. A position that warrants an invite to the White House for dinner with our Mango Mussolini and the Saudi crown prince, also well known as the bone saw butcher of journalist Jamal Khashoggi.

I know we shouldn’t hold professional athletes to a higher standard that politicians or corporate CEO’s, but then again John Thune or Jamie Damon don’t have hotels named after them or statues in their hometowns. Ronaldo is a cultural celebrity and, of course, a great soccer player, but one hopes he has, along with his billion dollars, just a bit of social conscience. Maybe not being a foil for Donald Trump or an apologist for a murderous Saudi prince isn’t all that much to ask.

There is one school of thought that Ronaldo is just going through the motions at an age when, so the theory goes, no one can really continue to play the game at the very highest levels. Maybe he needs the money?

OK, enough dissing on the man from Funchal, Maderia’s greatest. And besides, what do I really know about futbol?

Enough to like Ireland beating Portugal recently in a World Cup qualifier with Ronaldo getting a red card.

There will always be Paris

Final words: go see Notre Dame, ride the Paris Metro, eat a lot of croissants and the apple pie in Madeira is other worldly.

Favorite sign so far

That’s it for some less than important observations. I might - just might - comment in a future essay on the awesome kindness of strangers that make travel such a completely enjoyable endeavor.

So until next time …

Oh, yes, I’m pretty sure I killed boar in France, but I won’t bore you with that story, at least not today. Still you might be interested to know that “in France there are wild boars almost everywhere.” Hunters take about 500,000 annually.

I got mine.

Thanks for reading. Au revoir

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1. “Some people better get fired on Monday for the gross buffoonery we just witnessed over the last four days,” Republican Representative Don Bacon (NE) wrote on X. “This hurt our country and undermined our alliances, and encouraged our adversaries.

2. Some of the best Ukraine reporting is being done by historian Phillips P. O’Brien. Highly recommend his work on Substack.